25 miles, 2 castles, 1 tidal crossing, and a very good reason to check the tide tables

Walking St Oswald's Way from Beadnell to Holy Island: beaches, a royal castle, a hermit's cave and the old pilgrims' route across the sands

25 miles of coast and country

2 days on foot

2 castles along the way

3 miles barefoot across the sands (optional, but you really should)

The plan

St Oswald's Way runs about 97 miles from Holy Island to Heavenfield near Hadrian's Wall, following places linked to King Oswald, the 7th-century king of Northumbria who invited St Aidan from Iona to bring Christianity to his kingdom. The stretch from Beadnell to Holy Island is the grand finale: long sandy beaches, the king's own fortress at Bamburgh, a quiet inland loop past St Cuthbert's Cave, and finally the walk across the sands to Lindisfarne, where Aidan founded his monastery in 635.

It's about 25 miles in total, and it splits nicely into two days with a night in Belford. Most of the route is easy walking on beaches, paths and farm tracks. The only part that needs real planning is the very end, because Holy Island is cut off by the tide twice a day. Work backwards from the safe crossing times and everything else falls into place.

Day one: Beadnell to Belford (about 11 miles)

Start: Beadnell and the lime kilns

Start down by Beadnell harbour, where a row of 18th-century lime kilns, now looked after by the National Trust, sits right beside the only west-facing harbour on England's east coast. Then head north along the dunes towards Seahouses, with the sweep of Beadnell Bay behind you.

Seahouses

About two miles in, Seahouses is the obvious first stop. Grab a coffee, watch the boats heading out to the Farne Islands, or, if it's anywhere near lunchtime, have fish and chips on the harbour wall. The Olde Ship Inn above the harbour is full of maritime bits and pieces and has been pouring pints for well over a century.

Along the beach to Bamburgh

From Seahouses the path follows the dunes and the beach for about three and a half miles to Bamburgh. It's one of the finest beach walks in the country, with Bamburgh Castle growing bigger on its rock with every step. The castle stands on the site of the royal fortress where Oswald ruled, so on this route it's more than just a pretty backdrop.

Bamburgh

Give yourself time here. The castle is well worth a visit, St Aidan's Church stands on the spot where Aidan is said to have died, and the RNLI Grace Darling Museum tells the story of the lighthouse keeper's daughter who rowed out to a shipwreck in 1838. For lunch or afternoon tea, the Copper Kettle Tea Rooms on Front Street is a local institution.

Budle Bay and on to Belford

North of Bamburgh the route skirts Budle Bay, a huge tidal inlet full of wading birds and wildfowl, especially in autumn and winter. At Waren Mill it turns inland across farmland to Belford, a small market town with a pub, shops and places to stay. The Blue Bell Hotel is a traditional coaching inn with a restaurant and bar, and a very welcome sight after a day on the sand.

Day two: Belford to Holy Island (about 14 miles)

St Cuthbert's Cave

From Belford the path climbs gently through woods and over the Kyloe Hills to St Cuthbert's Cave, a sandstone overhang hidden among the trees. Legend has it that the monks of Lindisfarne rested Cuthbert's body here in 875 as they fled from Viking raids. It's a peaceful, slightly magical spot, and the views from the ridge above stretch all the way to Holy Island.

Fenwick and down to the coast

The path drops down to the hamlet of Fenwick, where St Oswald's Way joins St Cuthbert's Way for the final stretch. Cross the A1 and the railway line with care, then head down to Beal and the start of the causeway. The Barn at Beal, a café and bar with views across the sands, is a good place to wait if you've arrived before the tide has gone out.

The Pilgrims' Way across the sands

Walkers can follow the road causeway, but the traditional route is the Pilgrims' Way, a line of tall wooden posts marking about three miles straight across the sands to the island. Take your boots off, roll your trousers up and expect mud and the odd ankle-deep channel. There are two refuge boxes on stilts along the way for emergencies. It takes around 75 to 90 minutes, and it's one of the most memorable walks you'll do anywhere.

Finish: Holy Island

Once you're over, it's a short walk into the village. Lindisfarne Priory, run by English Heritage, stands on the site of Aidan's monastery, and Lindisfarne Castle, run by the National Trust, perches on its rocky crag at the far end of the harbour. Try a glass of Lindisfarne Mead at St Aidan's Winery, then settle into the Crown & Anchor or The Ship Inn for a well-earned pint. If you can, stay the night on the island: when the tide comes in and the day visitors leave, the whole place goes quiet.

Where to eat and drink along the way

The Craster Arms, Beadnell — a village pub for the night before you set off.

Fish and chips on the harbour, Seahouses — an early lunch with the Farne Islands in view.

The Olde Ship Inn, Seahouses — a pint in one of the coast's best-known pubs.

The Copper Kettle Tea Rooms, Bamburgh — afternoon tea in the shadow of the castle.

The Blue Bell Hotel, Belford — dinner, a drink and a bed at the halfway point.

The Barn at Beal — coffee or lunch while you wait for the tide.

Pilgrims Coffee, Holy Island — island-roasted coffee and cake at the finish.

The Crown & Anchor and The Ship Inn, Holy Island — the finishing pint.

Tips if you're planning to walk it

Check the tide times before anything else. Northumberland County Council publishes safe crossing times for Holy Island. They're for cars, so if you're walking the Pilgrims' Way, start well before the middle of the safe period and never set off on a rising tide. If in doubt, use the causeway road or wait.

Plan how you'll get back. It's a one-way walk, and buses to and from the island are limited and depend on the tides. Arrange a lift or a taxi from the island, or stay the night and come back the next day.

Walk it north. Heading from Beadnell towards Holy Island saves the crossing for the end, which is exactly where it belongs.

Dogs are welcome, but mind the birds. Keep dogs on a lead through the dunes and around Budle Bay and Holy Island, which are important nature reserves, especially in the nesting season.

Bring a towel. Your feet will thank you after the sands.

Staying nearby

This walk starts right on the doorstep of Cowbell Cottage in Beadnell. Eider Cottage in Seahouses sits directly on the route a couple of miles further on. Walk out of the front door on day one, and let someone else do the driving on the way home.