8½ miles, 3 bays, 1 ruined castle, and a kipper at the finish

Walking the Northumberland Coast Path from Beadnell to Craster in a day: golden sands, a tern colony, a pub with its own brewery and the most dramatic castle on the coast

8½ miles of coast

1 day, at a gentle pace

3 bays of golden sand

1 ruined castle you'll see for miles before you reach it

The plan

If you want one day's walk that sums up the Northumberland coast, this is it. The Northumberland Coast Path runs for 62 miles from Cresswell up to Berwick-upon-Tweed, and the stretch from Beadnell south to Craster packs in almost everything that makes this coastline special: huge empty beaches, dunes, nature reserves, a proper village pub halfway, and the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle looming over the final few miles.

It's about 8½ miles, mostly on sand and grassy coastal paths, with very little climbing. Walked at a relaxed pace with stops for lunch, the castle and the odd paddle, it makes a comfortable day. It's a one-way walk, but the X18 bus runs along the coast and stops at both ends, so you don't need two cars.

The route

Start: Beadnell harbour

Start at Beadnell harbour, beside the 18th-century lime kilns now looked after by the National Trust and used by local fishermen to store lobster pots. From there, drop onto the beach and head south along the long sweep of Beadnell Bay. At low tide the sand is firm and wide; at high tide there's a path through the dunes behind.

Long Nanny and the tern colony

At the southern end of Beadnell Bay you'll reach the Long Nanny burn, crossed by a footbridge a little way inland. In spring and summer the dunes here are home to a National Trust colony of little terns and Arctic terns, watched over by rangers who live on site for the season. Keep to the signed path and keep dogs on a lead, and you'll get a close view of some of the UK's rarest seabirds.

Low Newton-by-the-Sea

Round the point is Low Newton-by-the-Sea, a tiny square of whitewashed fishermen's cottages set right on the beach. It's owned by the National Trust and hasn't changed much in a century. In one corner of the square is The Ship Inn, which brews its own beer on the premises and is the obvious place for lunch. Just behind the village, Newton Pool nature reserve has bird hides looking out over the freshwater lake.

Embleton Bay

From Low Newton the path follows Embleton Bay, one of the most beautiful beaches in Northumberland, with the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle growing larger at the far end. The path skirts the edge of Dunstanburgh Castle Golf Club, so keep an eye out for stray balls, then climbs gently towards the castle.

Dunstanburgh Castle

Built between 1313 and 1322 by Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, Dunstanburgh was once one of the largest castles in northern England. Today its ruined gatehouse and towers stand on a remote headland that you can only reach on foot. It's owned by the National Trust and looked after by English Heritage, and it's well worth paying to go in, if only to stand on the ramparts and look back along the coast you've just walked. Look out for the cliffs of Gull Crag on the north side, packed with kittiwakes in early summer.

Finish: Craster

The last mile and a quarter follows a grassy path along the shore, with sheep for company, into the little fishing village of Craster. It's famous for its kippers, which have been smoked here by the Robson family for four generations. You'll smell the smokehouse before you see it.

Where to eat and drink along the way

The Craster Arms, Beadnell — a village pub for dinner the night before you set off.

The Ship Inn, Low Newton-by-the-Sea — lunch and a pint of beer brewed on site, halfway along.

Shoreline Café, Craster — coffee, cakes and sandwiches, with dog-friendly outdoor seating.

Craster Fish Restaurant, Craster — seafood with harbour views, next to Robson's smokehouse.

The Jolly Fisherman, Craster — the finishing pint, with views over the harbour and a menu full of local seafood.

Robson's smokehouse, Craster — buy a pair of kippers to take home, or have a kipper sandwich on the spot.

Tips if you're planning to walk it

Use the bus. The X18 runs roughly hourly along the coast in the daytime and stops at Beadnell (right by the Craster Arms) and Craster. You can park in Craster, catch the bus up to Beadnell and walk back to your car, or walk from Beadnell and bus back. Check the current timetable before you set off.

Walk it south. Heading from Beadnell towards Craster keeps Dunstanburgh in front of you for the last few miles, and puts the kippers at the end.

Check the tide. Much of the route is on the beach. It's easier and quicker on the firm sand at low tide, and there are dune paths to fall back on when the tide is in.

Mind the birds. Keep dogs on a lead around the Long Nanny tern colony from May to August and through the nature reserves.

Book lunch at The Ship in summer. It's small and very popular, so booking ahead for food is a good idea on sunny days and in the school holidays.

Staying nearby

This walk starts on the doorstep of Cowbell Cottage in Beadnell. Eider Cottage is just two miles up the coast in Seahouses, a short bus ride from the start. Walk out of the front door in the morning, finish with kippers in Craster, and let the bus take the strain on the way home.