A Perfect Day in Berwick-upon-Tweed

Berwick is England's most northerly town, and for centuries it couldn't decide which country it belonged to. It changed hands between England and Scotland more than a dozen times, and the result is a town packed with history: huge Elizabethan ramparts, one of Britain's oldest barracks, three remarkable bridges and a harbour where seals pop up to see what you're doing. Add a honey farm and a historic suspension bridge just up the river, and you've got a very full, very happy day. Here's how we'd spend it.

Morning on the Walls

Start by walking the Elizabethan walls, the massive earth-and-stone ramparts built in the 1560s to keep the Scots out. They're among the best-preserved town defences of their kind in Europe, and you can walk right round the top of them. The circuit takes about an hour at a gentle pace, with views over the red rooftops, the river, the harbour and out to sea. It's free, it's dog-friendly, and it's the best way to get your bearings.

Berwick Barracks

Drop down from the ramparts to Berwick Barracks, one of the first purpose-built barracks in Britain, completed in the early 18th century. It's run by English Heritage and is home to the King's Own Scottish Borderers Regimental Museum, with uniforms, medals and stories spanning more than 300 years. It's a fascinating hour, and a good one for anyone with an interest in military history.

Lunch in Town

For lunch, head to The Maltings Kitchen, the café-restaurant at the town's arts centre, which has lovely views over the rooftops, the bridges and the Tweed. If you'd prefer something quirkier, Café Curio is a small bistro famous for its seafood, where the furniture and decorations are all for sale. It's cash only, so come prepared.

The Three Bridges and the Lowry Trail

After lunch, wander down to the quayside for the classic view of Berwick's three bridges. The Old Bridge, with its 15 sandstone arches, dates from the early 1600s. Beside it is the Royal Tweed Bridge, and beyond that the spectacular Royal Border Bridge, Robert Stephenson's railway viaduct of 1850, which still carries trains over the river on 28 arches.

The painter L.S. Lowry loved Berwick and visited many times, and a trail of information boards marks the spots where he painted. Following it is a lovely way to explore the quayside, the old streets and Spittal across the river.

Out Along the Pier

Walk out along the pier to the little lighthouse at the mouth of the Tweed. It's about half a mile of sea air, with views up the coast and back over the town. Keep an eye on the water: grey seals are regular visitors to the river mouth, and dolphins are sometimes spotted offshore.

The Union Chain Bridge and Chain Bridge Honey Farm

In the afternoon, take a short drive up the Tweed to Horncliffe and the Union Chain Bridge. Opened in 1820, it was once the longest iron suspension bridge in the world, and it's now the oldest suspension bridge in the world still carrying traffic. Walk out to the middle and you can stand with one foot in England and one in Scotland.

Just up the road is Chain Bridge Honey Farm. The visitor centre is free and packed with things to see: a living observation hive where you can watch the bees at work, displays about beekeeping, murals of local landmarks and a collection of vintage tractors and vehicles. The shop sells the farm's own honey, beeswax products and gifts, and in season the Café Bus, an old double-decker, serves tea, coffee and homemade cake. Check opening times before you go, as they change in winter.

An Evening in Berwick

Back in town, Foxton's Restaurant and Wine Bar is a good choice for dinner, with locally sourced food and a well-stocked wine list. Afterwards, see what's on at The Maltings, Berwick's arts centre, which has a busy programme of theatre, cinema, music and comedy. Or finish with a pint of local ale at The Barrels Ale House, which has live music downstairs, or The Curfew, a friendly micropub for real ale lovers.

Staying Nearby

Berwick is an easy day out from our coastal cottages. From Eider Cottage in Seahouses and Cowbell Cottage in Beadnell, it's around 40 minutes up the A1. Combine it with a morning on Holy Island on the way, if the tides are right, and you've got one of the best days out in North Northumberland. For more ideas, see our Things to do in Berwick-upon-Tweed page.

Berwick, what a day.