21 miles, 4 Roman forts, 1 famous gap, and a well-earned pint at the end

Walking Hadrian's Wall from Gilsland to Chollerford: the best stretch of the Wall, and where to stop along the way

21 miles of Wall

2 days (or 1 very long one)

5 Roman forts and museums

1 highest point on the whole Wall

The plan

If you only ever walk one piece of Hadrian's Wall, make it this one. Between Gilsland and Chollerford the Wall climbs up onto the Whin Sill, a long ridge of volcanic rock with cliffs on the north side and huge views in every direction. It's the section on all the postcards, and it's the stretch where the Wall itself is at its most complete.

It's about 21 miles end to end. You can do it in one very long day if you're fit and stubborn, but it's much better split over two, with a night at Once Brewed in the middle. The ground is up and down all the way through the central crags, so it takes longer than the mileage suggests. Allow for that, and for the fact that you'll want to stop every few hundred yards to take another photo of the same wall.

Day one: Gilsland to Once Brewed (about 8½ miles)

Start: Gilsland and Poltross Burn Milecastle

Gilsland sits right on the border between Cumbria and Northumberland, and the Wall runs straight through the village. Before you set off, have a look at Poltross Burn Milecastle, just by the railway line. It's one of the best-preserved milecastles anywhere on the Wall, and a nice gentle introduction to what's coming. If you need breakfast or something for your rucksack, House of Meg tearooms in the village does lunches, snacks and homemade baking.

Thirlwall Castle and Walltown

Heading east, the path passes the ruins of Thirlwall Castle, a 14th-century tower built largely from stone the builders helped themselves to from the Wall. At Walltown you'll find the Roman Army Museum, run by the Vindolanda Trust. It's worth an hour, it has a café, and it's the obvious place for an early lunch. Then it's straight up onto Walltown Crags, where the Wall suddenly starts to look like the Wall in the pictures.

Great Chesters and Cawfields

Next come the remains of Great Chesters fort, then Cawfields, where an old quarry has left a sheer cliff face and a small lake beside a very photogenic milecastle. There are toilets and a car park here, which is useful if anyone in your group is starting to question their life choices.

Winshields Crag and down to Steel Rigg

The last big climb of the day takes you over Winshields Crag, at 345 metres the highest point on the whole of Hadrian's Wall. On a clear day you can see the Solway Firth to the west and the Cheviots to the north. From there it's downhill to Steel Rigg car park, and a short walk down the lane to Once Brewed.

Tonight: the Twice Brewed Inn

The Twice Brewed Inn has been looking after Wall walkers for a very long time, and it brews its own beer on site. Hearty food, a proper pub atmosphere and a room full of people comparing blisters. Across the road, The Sill (the Northumberland National Park discovery centre) has a café, exhibitions and a rooftop you can walk on.

Day two: Once Brewed to Chollerford (about 12½ miles)

Sycamore Gap

About a mile east of Steel Rigg you'll drop into Sycamore Gap. The famous tree was illegally felled in 2023, but three years on the stump is sending up a ring of new shoots, and the gap is still one of the most beautiful spots on the Wall. It's a good place to stop, take a moment and look back along the crags.

Crag Lough and Housesteads

From there the path runs along the cliff tops above Crag Lough to Housesteads Roman Fort, the best-known fort on the Wall. Give it at least an hour and a half. The barracks, the granaries and the famous communal latrines are all there, and the museum does a good job of bringing it to life. There's a café and shop at the visitor centre at the bottom of the hill, which makes it the natural lunch stop of the day.

Sewingshields and Brocolitia

East of Housesteads the crowds thin out. The Wall runs over Sewingshields Crags and then gradually drops down off the Whin Sill into gentler farmland. At Carrawburgh, look out for the Temple of Mithras beside the fort of Brocolitia: a small, atmospheric shrine with replica altars, and one of the most unusual stops on the whole route.

Finish: Chesters Roman Fort and Chollerford

The last few miles pass Black Carts turret and bring you down to the River North Tyne at Chollerford. Just across the river is Chesters Roman Fort, a cavalry fort with the best-preserved Roman military bath house in Britain, right on the riverbank. Chesters Tearoom is on site for tea and cake, or, if you'd rather celebrate properly, The George Hotel by the bridge at Chollerford has a riverside garden that was made for a finishing pint.

Where to eat and drink along the way

House of Meg, Gilsland — breakfast, lunches and homemade baking before you set off.

Roman Army Museum café, Walltown — an easy first-morning stop.

The Twice Brewed Inn, Once Brewed — food, rooms and its own beer, halfway along.

The Sill, Once Brewed — café and visitor centre across the road.

Housesteads visitor centre — café and shop below the fort.

Chesters Tearoom, Chollerford — tea and cake at the finish.

The George Hotel, Chollerford — a pint by the river to finish.

Tips if you're planning to walk it

Walk it west to east. Doing it this way keeps the prevailing wind at your back and saves the biggest forts for day two.

Sort out transport first. It's a linear walk, so you'll need to get back to your car. The AD122 Hadrian's Wall bus runs along the Wall in the main season and stops at several points on this route. Check the current timetable before you go, or leave a car at each end.

Book ahead in summer. Accommodation at Once Brewed and entry to the forts can get busy, especially at weekends in July and August.

Stay on the path. Walk beside the Wall, never on it, and keep dogs on leads around livestock. The crags have steep drops on the north side.

Be ready for all four seasons. The central section is exposed, and the weather on the Whin Sill can change fast. Waterproofs, layers and proper boots are a must.

Staying nearby

Our Bellingham cottages, Castle Hill View and Lock Up Mews, are about 20 minutes' drive north of Chollerford, which makes them an easy base for the Wall. Walk a section by day, then head back up the North Tyne valley for dinner at the pub and some of the darkest skies in England.