26 miles, 3 pubs, 2 black runs, and absolutely no regrets

A day out cycling Kielder Reservoir — the full loop, the full story

26 miles ridden

3 pub stops

2 black runs attempted

10 hours of adventure

The plan (such as it was)

Some days, a plan is a masterpiece of logistics. This was not one of those days. Ours was simple: meet at Kielder Castle car park, hire bikes, ride around the reservoir, stop for food and the odd pint along the way, and get back in one piece. Ambitious in its own quiet way.

We collected our mountain bikes from Team Cycles, the hire shop right there by the castle. The staff were brilliant — patient, friendly, and mercifully non-judgemental as we kicked tyres, adjusted seats, and generally pretended we knew what we were doing. By mid-morning, we were clipped in (or rather, emphatically not clipped in — we weren't that kind of cyclists) and rolling.

The route: reservoirs, forest tracks, and one very questionable decision

The full loop around Kielder Reservoir is one of those rides that looks entirely manageable on a map. And honestly, for most of the day, it was. The trails weave through dense Sitka spruce forest, break out to wide water views across the reservoir, and feel genuinely remote — which, this deep into Northumberland, they very much are. On a clear day, it's stunning.

The surface varies — some smooth gravel path, some more technical forest track — but the mountain bikes swallowed it all happily. The first half of the loop, running along the southern shore, was a great warm-up: rolling terrain, open views, and legs still feeling fresh.

The stops (the real highlights, let's be honest)

Kielder Waterside Forest Bar

Our first proper break, roughly at the halfway point on the western end of the reservoir. Food, drinks, and a chance to sit down and admire the view — and quietly assess how the legs were holding up. Spoiler: fine, at this stage. Very fine.

The Pheasant Inn, Stannersburn

A proper country pub tucked into the valley — the kind of place that makes you understand why people move to Northumberland. A round of pints and some very welcome grub. At this point, we felt invincible. This would turn out to be relevant later.

The Blackcock Inn, Falstone

Another crack of a pub, a little further round the loop. By now the mood was high, the conversation excellent, and any lingering concerns about the remaining miles had been largely dissolved. It was here, it must be said, that the black run idea began to seem like a very good one.

The black runs: a brief and honest account

"It seemed like a good idea at the time" — the traditional British defence, and the only one available to us.

On the north side of the reservoir, there are a handful of black-graded mountain bike trails cutting down through the forest. In other circumstances — fresh legs, full concentration, daylight confidence — they would still have been a stretch for our group. In our actual circumstances — 20 miles already in the legs, a couple of pints to the good, and an entirely unjustified sense of capability — they were absolutely chaotic.

We survived. That's perhaps the most generous summary. There were moments of genuine skill, more moments of barely-controlled descent, a few emergency grabs at trees, and the kind of laughter that only happens when everyone is equally terrified and equally aware it was entirely self-inflicted. Would we do it again? Yes. Absolutely yes. But maybe on fresher legs.

The finish: castles, mazes, and one final round

We rolled back into the Kielder Castle car park about ten hours after setting off — muddy, tired, and grinning. The bikes went back to Team Cycles (still in one piece, mercifully), and with energy somehow still left in the tank, we had a proper look around the castle itself. Dating back to the 18th century and now an arts hub and visitor centre, it's a brilliant building — and worth the explore.

The Minotaur Maze nearby was also a highlight — a small stone maze that after a full day of cycling, tested the navigation skills more than expected.

And then: the Kielder Tavern. The perfect full stop. Cold pints, warm food, and a very long, very satisfied debrief of the day's events. Everyone agreed it had been one of the best days out in recent memory — and that we'd be back.

Maybe we'd even skip the black runs next time. Probably not, though.

Tips if you fancy doing it yourself

A few things worth knowing before you go:

Hire from Team Cycles at Kielder Castle

Mountain bikes only — and that's exactly what you want. The trail surface demands it. Book ahead if you can, especially in summer.

Plan your pub stops in advance

Check opening hours — particularly the Pheasant and Blackcock, which can have limited hours mid-week. Nothing worse than cycling 15 miles for a closed pub.

On the black runs: know your limits

They are genuinely technical. Sober, rested, with proper skills — brilliant. Tired, after pints, 20 miles in — inadvisable. (But undeniably memorable.)

Leave time for the castle, maze, viaduct etc, and generally just some time to stop and soak up the beautiful surroundings.